Established in 1975 and born to an ex-Scarfie duo originally from Italy, Poppa’s Pizza is New Zealand’s oldest pizzeria at 50 years old – and for good reason. Critic Te Ārohi sat at the feet of the grandaddy pizzeria for a history lesson.
It was two students who originally started Poppa’s, and they are still the landlords to this day. Current loyal staff member Khush described them as “super passionate about their business, just like [they] were back then” (flat landlords could never). From day dot, their vision was simple: creating a “hub where students can come and eat that's easy, convenient, and close by.” Khush believes sticking to this vision has kept Poppa’s thriving. “It’s cosy, it takes you back, it makes you think of the old times,” she told Critic.
Located across the road from Central Library, you’d be hard-pressed to find a student without memories of pizza-fuelled exam cramming nights. And nothing says “student hub” like multiple levels of late-night studiers ogling your meal through the opposite glass walls of Central. Or the overtly Scarfie Orientation posters that adorn the walls in the manner of a teenage boy with his vintage Playboys. Good times.
Unlike the revolving flavours of Emerson’s beer taps, the recipes at Poppa’s have stuck to tradition, remaining the same since 1975. “We still get customers who were students working at Poppa’s,” Khush recalled. “They come in and say, ‘I know how you make your sauce!’ And yeah – it hasn't changed.” The dough is also made the old-fashioned way: fermented and kneaded by hand, crafted fresh every morning. Khush described making the perfect pizza as “literally an art”. Call us aesthetes.
Khush credits the taste of pizzas as a key reason why students just keep coming back to Poppa’s. “The pizza is just so yummy,” she said with a dreamy look. Indeed, Jack Manning, 2020 OUSA Student President, described Poppa’s in the same way even nine years later: “Yummy”. Eloquent. Henry, a 1984 student, also reminisced that Poppa’s were “legendary in the 80s – a real go-to. Dunedin’s alternative to fish and chips.” As long as there’s been hungry students, good old Poppa has been there to serve. The joint is also a popular lunch spot among University staff and the wider Dunedin community, who still relate to Poppa’s today and recall many great memories sitting in their wooden booths. Like pews at the church of stretchy mozzarella and the perfect crust.
DJ, the current owner, emphasised how important students are to Poppa’s continued success. “Students play the greatest role towards our survival. Even just telling friends about us, ordering for their student associations, or leaving a good review — it all helps so much. We literally wouldn’t last long without their support.” He also gave students a shoutout for not trashing the place when stopping in for a bite (it’s the least we could do). “Come say hi, check out the posters, have a drink, have a pizza.”
From chatting with students who used to come to Poppa’s thirty or forty years ago, to those who once worked behind the counter, Poppa’s is a clear constant. Khush added that one person even drives from Christchurch every month and always orders two large pizzas to go, always the same order: a Meat Lovers and a Markollo.
Poppa’s has renewed their liquor licence just last month and offers BYOs – shocking news for the Maharajas faithful. There’s also apparently beer and wine available, if you’re into that sort of thing. Students are encouraged to call up and book next club outing gatherings or if you’re feeling lazy, we’re told they’ve expanded to online delivery and can personally deliver large orders for parties or gatherings. Students are also encouraged to speak exclusively in Italian mob boss accents upon delivery, for funsies.
After all these years, Poppa’s relationship with the students could rival Speight’s hold on the South. They support a range of student associations, sponsoring quiz nights and offering some darn good deals. “We know students love a good deal,” Khush said with a knowing twinkle in her eye. Poppa’s are celebrating their birthday by offering regular pizzas for $10 or a free drink or garlic bread with any large pizza if you bring along your student ID. Plus, students get 10% off all year. As Khush and DJ put it, “It’s really great that people are still so attached.” Critic will be found dead with a cold, cheap (but yummy) cheese pizza clutched in hand.