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These are the places your mother doesn't want you to go. Half the people you know won't expect you to come back. Most of the friendly farewell advice you receive will be along the lines of “Don't die.” There will be frustrating border crossings, people with guns, and a lot of desert. Tempted yet? You should be – exploring the Far East will be the time of your life. It's just as ancient, exotic, and colourful as you could ever hope – and so much more. The people are wonderful, the sights are mind-blowing, and every day is different. This is a trip for nerds, adventurers, hippies, the religious, the curious, the rebellious, and the bold.
Susan Smirk presents a possible itinerary that takes you from the Middle East overland to North Africa.

The whole trip can be done in as little as four weeks (the times noted are the minimum), but it’s much better to go at your own pace and soak up every moment.
 
Get ready!
Culture and language: You will see a wide variation of clothing and practices, from very conservative to very modern. Research as much as possible before you go, and learn a bit of the language – a little goes a long way! English is spoken to a good degree in most places though.
Arabic Greeting: “As-Sal?mu `Alaykum (Reply: Alaykum As-Salamu)”
Thankyou: “Shukran”
 
Get set!
Timing: New Zealand's summer is not a bad time to head to the Middle East – temperatures are reasonably temperate, and it isn't too crowded. If you are interested, you might want to try and time your trip alongside religious events or festivals.
Safety: Use your common sense. Be respectful and friendly to authorities. Be aware of your surroundings and your gear. Look after your friends. Have ‘just in case’ plans. Have fun!
For the ladies: It's probably not the best idea to do this trip as a single female (unless you are a seasoned traveller), but a group of two or more women will be fine. You will experience a fair bit of flattery and flirting (mostly from shopkeepers), and the occasional proposition, but if you choose to find it funny rather than offensive, your good attitude will carry you through. 
 
JORDAN
 
Madaba, and down the King's Highway (Days 1-2)
Fly to Jordan. You'll land in the Queen Alia International Airport, but I suggest skipping Amman at first, and going instead to a smaller town called Madaba, which is even closer to the airport. It has some ancient mosaics which are quite incredible, and you can also reach a few other historical sites from Madaba.
The Hotel Mariam is a good option for accommodation – it's clean, has a pool, free breakfast, and it's cheap. But more importantly, it seems to offer the only transport down the incredibly scenic King’s Highway (you can book with them, even if you aren't staying there). I strongly recommend this route south, instead of the modern, less interesting Desert Highway. On the King's Highway you can admire Wadi Mujib (the spectacular grand canyon of Jordan), explore the awesome Karak Castle, and enjoy your first taste of desert scenery, complete with Bedouin tents and camels.
 
Petra, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world (Days 3-4)
Petra is a huge site, spread across several valleys. Take at least two days to explore if you can. You can explore with a guide, a guidebook, or on your own. Bring a packed lunch with you. You can do some parts (e.g. the treacherous mountain path to the Monastery) by donkey, and others by camel, if you want. Don't forget to hydrate! And accept a cup of sweet minty tea from the lovely Bedouin folk if they offer. Note: You don't actually stay in Petra (rock caves aren't that comfy), you stay in Wadi Moussa, the modern town built beside it.
 
Wadi Rum Desert (Days 5-6)
Catch an early morning bus to Wadi Rum. Lawrence of Arabia was filmed in this dramatic patch of desert. Get a guide (you need one this time, it's the rules) and head out for a day or two into the desert, either in a jeep, or on a camel … but beware that camels aren't so exciting after a few hours in the hot sun. Watch the sunset, eat a delicious meal around the fire, dance to the Bedouin guitar, watch for shooting stars, and sleep in a Bedouin tent. 
 
Living it up in tropical Aqaba (Days 7-8)
Catch another early morning bus south to the resort-town of Aqaba. Here you can scuba dive or snorkel, whichever you are most comfortable with, and admire the colourful coral, sea-life, and occasional shipwreck. If you aren't staying at a hotel with a free shuttle to the good beach down the coast, then piggy-back on another hotel's shuttle for a small price. You will find pools, bars, deck chairs, and scuba/snorkel gear hire. Nice. 
You can cross over to Israel (Eilat) by land border from here, if you want to. If so, you might want to consider inserting the next part (Amman-Jerash) of the trip at the start of your visit. The benefit of doing that part at the end of your stay in Jordan is that you can then use the King Hussein border crossing (a.k.a. Allenby Crossing) to get into Israel, and this is the only border where you can ask them not to give you an Israeli stamp in your passport – an important detail if you want to go to other countries later that aren't friends with Israel.
 
North to Amman (Days 9-10)
Take a bus up the Desert Highway to Amman. Take some time there if you want, exploring the historical and cultural sites, and move on when you are tired on the big city life.
 
Jerash – ancient ruins and gladiators (Day 11)
Catch another bus all the way North to Jerash. This is a large and impressive site of Roman ruins. Explore at your leisure, but try to time it right to see some of the enactments of gladiator fights and chariot races they run in the main arena. You might even get an authentic and exhilarating chariot ride (for a small tip). Important note: there is no transport back to Amman after about 5pm. Don't get stuck in Jerash. 
Once you get back to Amman, and have had your fill of beautiful, friendly Jordan, head on over the King Hussein border crossing, and get a service taxi straight into Jerusalem.
 
ISRAEL
 
Jerusalem – the holy city (Days 12-15)
Jerusalem is the geographical centre for three faiths: Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. The wider modern city of Jerusalem is nice enough, but if you want to get to the heart of it, book yourself into a little backpacker’s within the Old City of Jersualem (suggested: The Citadel. The rooms are like caves!). You could wander for days in the little stone streets packed with stalls selling spices, candy, food, jewellery, souvenirs, fashions, art, and everything else, rubbing shoulders with people in every kind of religious garb. The Old City (and nearby areas) contain numerous important religious sites; The Dome of the Rock, The Via Dolorosa (Walk of the Cross), The Wailing Wall. The whole place is steeped in history, passion, and blood ... and personally, I think you can feel it. It's an amazing place. Take your time here, to get lost, intrigued and inspired. 
 
PALESTINE (Day 16)
 
You should go here. Really. Really truly. Go to the West Bank – it's pretty safe at the moment (though check before you go), and there are no issues for tourists getting in. You can go through the wall in East Jerusalem, and spend just a few hours in Occupied Territory. You can go to Bethlehem, not far from there, or you can go further north into the West Bank – I suggest Nablus, a haven of history, ancient and modern – with several semi-permanent refugee camps. Check out projecthope.ps if you are interested in a volunteering experience like no other. MUST DO: Eat the local delicacy, Kanafeh, a sweet, cheesy dessert like nothing you've ever tasted before. I wholeheartedly recommend westbanktours.com.
 
BACK IN ISRAEL
 
Tel Aviv, the Miami of the Middle East, and up the coast. (Days 17-19)
Go by bus from Jerusalem to the wealthy, chic sea-side city of Tel Aviv. There are cell phone stores on every corner, and women in bright jumpsuits walking chihuahuas. However it also encompass the old sea port of Jaffa (Yaffo), where Jonah started his sea voyage that ended in a fish’s belly. The Jaffa markets are amazing, especially on a Friday. 
When you are ready, you can get a train the entire way up the coast. Stop at Haifa if you want. If you are interested in history/archaeology, a great stop is Akko (once called Acre). It’s famous for the Crusaders and Templar knights, and there are lots of cool fortifications and secrets tunnels by the sea that you can explore here. 
 
The Sea of Galilee, and Golan Heights (Days 20-22)
Next, go inland to the Sea of Galilee (a.k.a. Lake Gennesaret/Kinneret). Stay in the happening tourist town of Tiberias. Eating is fairly expensive here, but it has the best ice-cream in the land, and is a beautiful spot. It's also the best base for exploring the Galilee region, which holds many important Christian sites. You can circle the lake easily in a few hours, and if you want to, can go further north into the reportedly spectacular Golan heights. The downside in this region is the lack of public transport – join an organised tour, hire a taxi for a day, or hire a car (if you are over 23 and happy to drive on the right side of the road).
 
Exodus to Egypt – via the Dead Sea and the Red Sea (Days 23-26)
You are now going all the way south, yet again. Go back to Jerusalem. If you haven't yet fulfilled your mad craving for desert, you can go inland to Beer Sheeba (in the Negev Desert), otherwise head straight down towards the Dead Sea. Stop and enjoy the wild beauty of Ein Gedi oasis if you feel like extending this leg of the journey. You can also spend a few hours at Massada, taking a cable car to the mountain top where the historical massacre occurred. Do not miss stopping for a swim in the amazing Dead Sea – you bob in a truly odd, physics-defying manner, but it stings in some very awkward places.
Now head down to the Taba border and into Egypt. First, make a stop at the fabulous resort spots at Nuweiba or Dahab for some more snorkling, scooba-ing, or lounge-by-the-pool-ing. Enjoy the Red Sea for as long as you want, climb Mount Sinai if you can be bothered, visit St Catherine's Monastery if you are interested, and then continue on to Cairo.
 
EGYPT
 
Cairo – the pyramids plus (Days 27-29)
Egypt is the trickiest to travel in. Cairo is huge, dirty, and a bit daunting. Men are a bit more forward here in my experience, too. I would recommend joining a tour group, even if 'package tours' aren't your thing. Gecko tours are good: you can get a 'budget' one which lets you control the cost, hang out with a bunch of Kiwis and Aussies, and see the sites with an actual Egyptologist. Just out of Cairo you see the Pyramids and the Sphinx. They are impressive. Enough said. The Egyptian Museum is incredible too – more ancient treasures than you can poke a stick at. In Cairo you can also get a felucca (traditional sail boat) or a big party boat out onto the Nile at night, to admire the city lights. And there are plenty of incredible markets. Other things to do either now or later are visit a papyrus gallery and a perfumery, letting yourself be talked into a luxury purchase or two.
 
South by land or water (Days 30-34)
Go South by (overnight) train, but beware of the gross toilets. You can sail all the way from Cairo if you have the money, or you can sail part-way (e.g. Luxor to Aswam). Either way, try and get some time on a boat on the Nile – gliding down the wide blue river is magic. Sometimes little boys row up to your boat on old doors, using jandals to paddle, to busk. And then there are the floating carpet salesmen. 
Luxor (ancient Thebes) is the first stop, with the unmissable Karnak Temple. Out of all the temples, this one is the only must see. You'll recognise it from many movies (eg. Transformers 2). In Luxor you also go to the Valley of the Kings, where you can admire the colourful, amazing preserved hieroglyphics in the Pharaoh's tombs.
Aswan is next. A smaller, more relaxed town than Luxor, it also has many archaeological sites to see, including Philae Temple, which has a sound and light show. You can also do a cultural tour, getting to know the Nubian people, or visit the Nubian museum. From Aswan you also get transport further south to see the famed Temple Abu Simbel. It is an engineering wonder not only because of the enormous statues and temple carved into the mountain, but because the entire thing was moved by modern engineers to make way for the rising waters of a new dam. 
 
Back to Cairo, and back home ... or on to a new adventure 
Take the train back to Cairo. From here, you either fly back home or head somewhere else. I suggest East Africa, but the world is your oyster – you choose!
 
 
THE BASICS:
Expenses:
The flight. STA has flights for $2579 for student and youths and $2799 for everyone else for flights to Jordan in mid-November and returning to New Zealand from Cairo before Christmas. Cheaper prices maybe available in low season starting around $1999 for students. Prices are available leaving Auckland or Christchurch.
Israel is most expensive, Egypt is cheapest. Haggling is part of the culture – give it a go! You can use credit cards in a very few places, but keep cash on you always, in local currency, and in American dollars (which are widely accepted, or exchangeable). You can change money at borders, or money-changers – be careful that you know the exchange rate, and get a decent price!
 
TRANSPORT: Go local wherever possible. This is usually a bus or a 'service taxi.' You book buses, but service taxis (smaller size) just wait at stations and simply leave whenever they are full. In Israel, the train service is very modern, and trains in Egypt are also vital for the vast overland distances. Tip: Never trust a taxi driver! They can be awful liars!
FOOD: Yum. Pita bread, hummus, falafel, olives. I recommend ordering schwarma if you are unsure ... it's like a kebab. You can find a McDonald's easily in most cities, and you will never lack for Coca Cola or Sprite. But eating local is much cheaper – and tastier.