It’s only a 30-minute drive north-east from Dunedin (turn left when you get to Port Chalmers and follow the signs for Long Beach and Purakaunui), but Long Beach’s sleepy serenity and calm tide make it feel a word apart from the relative bustle of the city. Maybe that’s why people built holiday homes there: Long Beach is home to a small settlement, with around 100 picture-postcard kiwiana cribs crouched in behind the sand dunes. (Fun fact: Out of the Blue, the movie about the Aramoana massacre, was filmed mainly at Long Beach. Both places have a similarly low-key, almost-too-quiet, this-is-a-bit-creepy vibe.)
A visit to Long Beach is not complete without a foray into the massive cave at the northern end. This grotto is complete with a periodically-revived bonfire, burnt-out armchair and a roof blackened from the smoke of many a burning marshmallow (or joint, maybe). In fact, this amphitheatre-like formation was for many years the site of the infamous Rave in the Cave (a party held in a cave, just as the name suggests), now the stuff of Dunedin legend. The last of these, organised in 2010, ended up being held at that other cavernous Dunedin venue, Sammy’s, because of safety concerns (sheep have been known to kamikaze off the surrounding farmland-clad cliffs, and falling rocks remain a danger) and resistance from local councillors. Nevertheless, cave excursions – including overnight ones – continue to be popular. Take a torch and some blankets, though, as it’s chilly at the best of times.
Long Beach’s other claim to fame is its dramatically beautiful basalt cliffs, which happen to provide some of the best rock climbing around. Local climbing enthusiasts have been challenged by the crags for decades, with around 130 routes now mapped out across their many faces. The Pinnacle, a rocky promontory rising about 30 metres out of the sand, gained popularity as a climbing spot way back in the 1950s. Since the Long Beach’s alpine club heyday in the 1960s, climbers have traded heavy tramping boots for slipper-like rock shoes, pitons and slings for permanent bolts, and wooden wedges for snazzy cams. Six people even hold the dubious honour of being members of the Long Beach Broken Back club.
Many interesting birds, including blue penguins (and not too many seagulls) call Long Beach home. Enjoy.
Get there: by car. Follow the signs from Port Chalmers. Stop in at the Orokonui Eco Sanctuary and check out the flora and fauna on the way.
Do: try your hand at rock-climbing some time, if you can gather some gear and people who know what they’re doing.
Don’t: bring your surfboard (the beach is sheltered, and generally calm), but do bring your togs for a paddle if you’re braver than we were.
Eat: BYO picnic.